The Illuminating Fires along the Ganges
Sekhar’s Varanasi drivers picked us up and four guides took us by boat on the Ganges River to our Heritage Hotel on the bank of the water. They served us beverages and snacks– including hot, freshly-brewed coffee on the boat!
We arrived at our Heritage Hotel that has 15 well-appointed rooms overlooking the Ganges River. The Jukaso Ganges at Varanasi is built on a sloped embankment at the edge of the Ganges Rive, which is typical of the riverfront architecture of Varanasi. Sandstone quarried from the area has been extensively used in the structural beams and columns of this property. Our room as well as several others face east, providing guests with the advantage of a panoramic river view.
Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath which we will visit on Friday, located near Varanasi.
Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world, and its prominence in Hindu mythology is unparalleled. Mark Twain, who was enthralled by the legend and sanctity of Varanasi, once wrote :
“Varanasi is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”
Traveling by boat affords you a vantage point that unravels the awe and mystery right before your very eyes. It’s surreal and in some ways feels “spiritually voyeuristic” to watch devout pilgrims in the holy waters. Your senses are on overload as they are washing their clothing, bathing, and most of all experiencing this, some for the first time in their lives.
The white billowing smoke comes out of visually overpowering flames. It is the inexpressible (burning) smell of India’s most recently-deceased mothers, fathers, brothers, sisters, relatives, friends, and children along the shore of the river. It paralyzes you with a sense of hypnotic, sensorial, brimming reverence and wonderment, as I have never experienced before.
The sheer and ever-present piety of the Hindu followers there, who steadfastly attend to their loved ones in the ways of their ancient ancestors, is a never-to-be-forgotten moment for this witnessing mortal’s experience. Celebrated and observed milestones are markers that differentiate human beings! Birth and death, death and birth!
Soon our journey will end, but the multitude of memories in India have become etched into our hearts and souls. Janice and I are feeling reborn. Traveling throughout India has turned out to be the trip of a lifetime! Memories do “light the corners of our minds” and the recesses of our hearts, especially in the ancient heritage of India! Celebrate… celebrate… dance to the music… of life!
After lunch we walked for several hours through the narrow ancient streets of Varanasi and then stopped for refreshment. Sekhar had been telling us about a yogurt oasis that would somehow appear.
Lonely Planet describes The Blue Lassi as:
“a tiny yoghurt shop with a big – and well-deserved – reputation for serving up Varanasi’s freshest, creamiest, fruit-filled lassis for over ninety years.”
Sekhar takes a picture at the Blue Lassi as I take his picture with a cell phone… and Janice, as usual, is smiling through it all!
The founder of Blue Lassi:
This yogurt, churned by the able hands of a father and grandson, is like no other on the planet!
Leave a Reply