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Behind the Scenes in India

Behind the Scenes in India

NB: February 29th was the 41st wedding anniversary of Manny and Janice  From the future temple workers and princesses:  We have fallen for the people, sights and sounds of India and our daily lives will never be the same.  Now it’s back to being “Bubby and Zaide” again until the next trip, which will be traveling throughout the Middle East:  Happy 41st anniversary to my devoted wife Janice, who was also a courageous explorer and dedicated partner during Destination Peace:

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A “High Note“ of Our Trip

Last night we had the distinct honor and blessing of being invited to the home of a distinguished professor of Hindustan music and legendary Indian violinist.  He gave us a private concert which included a history of traditional Hindustan music, mesmerizing chanting and the virtuosic playing of one of his own crafted violins.  Dr. V. Balaji, a virtuosic violinist on faculty of the Performing Arts at Banaras Hindu University in Varanasi, in his beautiful home  He has invented incredible instruments including: Want to hear some of our concert? Click here!  Learn More About Destination Peace At: Destination Peace

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maha Shivratri

Maha Shivratri: The Hindu High Holiday

We are here during the Hindu High Holiday of Maha Shivratri in Varanasi.  The observant Hindu faithful flock to temples to offer their prayers. All day long they observe a fast. They remain awake the entire night to serve offerings and implore the lord to shower his blessings upon them. Even at night they abstain from taking any food. They break their fast the next day.  Religious hymns are sung with feelings of great warmth and intensity. The ardor and devotion of the adherents is great. The belief is that they will be liberated from the cycle of birth and rebirth and attain true salvation if they chant this mantra.  Time for celebrating the Maha Shivratri in Varanasi  The Maha Shivratri in Varanasi generally falls in the 13th or 14th day of the Hindu month of Phalguna (February – March) which fell last night and today.  From our pictures, you can ascertain what we experienced in our “front row seats”: from a flotilla of boats, to walking amidst the huge crowds, frequent bulls, cows, dogs, goats, and perpetual motorcycles. It was a real miracle that none of us got lost from each other, as throngs of believers walked along with us… especially hundreds of thousands of Varanasi’s young people. They walked 50 miles barefoot all night and into the mid afternoon today.  It takes 15 hours and they visit 5 sacred sites along the way. We saw many of them limping or stepping gingerly this morning. We also walked and traveled several times by boat past a Jain Temple which is located on Jain Ghat. Feroza gave us an explanation of this sect that arose from Hinduism 2,500 years ago:  They refrain from hurting any living creatures to the best of their ability. They are very strict in their food habits; vegetarians who don’t eat anything that grows under the ground including for example potatoes, onions and garlic. 

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Varanasi Heritage and Ganges River

The Illuminating Fires along the Ganges 

Janice and I flew to Varanasi from Delhi with Sekhar, Feroza and Suresh.  Sekhar’s Varanasi drivers picked us up and four guides took us by boat on the Ganges River to our Heritage Hotel on the bank of the water. They served us beverages and snacks– including hot, freshly-brewed coffee on the boat!  We arrived at our Heritage Hotel that has 15 well-appointed rooms overlooking the Ganges River. The Jukaso Ganges at Varanasi is built on a sloped embankment at the edge of the Ganges Rive, which is typical of the riverfront architecture of Varanasi. Sandstone quarried from the area has been extensively used in the structural beams and columns of this property. Our room as well as several others face east, providing guests with the advantage of a panoramic river view.  Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath which we will visit on Friday, located near Varanasi.  Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world, and its prominence in Hindu mythology is unparalleled. Mark Twain, who was enthralled by the legend and sanctity of Varanasi, once wrote :   “Varanasi is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”  Traveling by boat affords you a vantage point that unravels the awe and mystery right before your very eyes. It’s surreal and in some ways feels “spiritually voyeuristic” to watch devout pilgrims in the holy waters. Your senses are on overload as they are washing their clothing, bathing, and most of all experiencing this, some for the first time in their lives.  The white billowing smoke comes out of visually overpowering flames. It is the inexpressible (burning) smell of India’s most recently-deceased mothers, fathers, brothers, sisters, relatives, friends, and children along the shore of the river. It paralyzes you with a sense of hypnotic, sensorial, brimming  reverence  and wonderment, as I have never experienced before.  The sheer and ever-present piety of the Hindu followers there, who steadfastly attend to their loved ones in the ways of their ancient ancestors, is a never-to-be-forgotten moment for this witnessing mortal’s experience. Celebrated and observed  milestones are markers that differentiate human beings! Birth and death, death and birth!  Soon our journey will end, but the multitude of memories in India have become etched into our hearts and souls. Janice and I are feeling reborn. Traveling throughout India has turned out to be the trip of a lifetime! Memories do “light the corners of our minds” and the recesses of our hearts, especially in the ancient heritage of India! Celebrate… celebrate… dance to the music… of life!  After lunch we walked for several hours through the narrow ancient streets of Varanasi and then stopped for refreshment. Sekhar had been telling us about a yogurt oasis that would somehow appear. Lonely Planet describes The Blue Lassi as:  “A tiny yoghurt shop with a big – and well-deserved – reputation for serving up Varanasi’s freshest, creamiest, fruit-filled lassis for over ninety years.”  Also Read: Sikhs, Mosques and Old Delhi

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Sikhs, Mosques and Old Delhi

Today Sekhar, Janice, Feroza, Suresh and I walked around Old Delhi, then visited two more historic mosques and for the first time ever (for Team DestinationPeace’s #IndiaTrip!) a Sikh temple.  Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib is one of nine historical gurdwaras in Delhi. First constructed in 1783 by Baghel Singh to commemorate the martyrdom site the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur. Situated in Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, it marks the site where the ninth Sikh Guru was beheaded on the orders of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb on 11 November 1675 for refusing to convert to Islam.  We also visited two more mosques:  The first mosque is relatively unknown, even to the locals. It is hidden atop a storefront in the Old City. Sekhar, having spent his life in Delhi, knows the ins and outs of both Old and New Delhi!  The concealed mosque Rukn-Ud-Daula was built by the Nawaab Rukn-Ud-Daula in the 18th century. It has all the art forms of stone carving that were present at that time. Though the structure isn’t large, it has intricate detailing. The entire facade of the building has stone carving from a single stone. Janice at the Sikh Temple Photo: SC Sekhar  We also visited The Masjid-i Jahān-Numā, commonly known as the “Jama Masjid.” It is one of the largest mosques in India, built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan between 1644 and 1656 at a cost of 1 million rupees.  The mosque has been the site of two attacks, one in 2006 and another in 2010. During the first, two explosions occurred in the mosque, injuring thirteen people. In the second, two Taiwanese students were injured as two gunmen opened fire. 

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Tallest-Brick-Minaret-in-the-World-Delhi-Old-and-New

Tallest Brick Minaret in the World: Delhi, Old and New

Today we continued exploring Muslim architecture.  The Qutb Minar is the tallest brick minaret in the world. Standing at 239 ft high, it has five distinct stories, each marked by a projecting balcony. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with surrounding buildings and monuments. Its construction also marked the beginning of Muslim rule in India.  It’s a part of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque (might of Islam) (also known as the Qutub Mosque or the Great Mosque of Delhi). It was the first mosque built in Delhi after the Islamic conquest of India and the oldest surviving example of Ghurids architecture in the Indian subcontinent.  The iron pillar is one of the world’s foremost metallurgical curiosities. The pillar bears an inscription in Sanskrit in Brahmi script dating to the 4th century AD.  By the way… wherever we traveled throughout India, Janice was somewhat of a curiosity (being blond) who attracted many spectators; some of whom clandestinely (or quite openly) asked to take her picture!  In the following picture, a young bride had her husband secretly snap a picture of Janice as she was walking down a flight of steps. When Janice questioned her about taking her picture she gave an excited thumbs up. Janice gave her a beaming smile of approval. The young bride was so elated! Here she is: Sekhar drove us to see Old and New Delhi, including the capitol area of India. Incredibly, Delhi has been continuously inhabited since the 6th century BC. Through most of its history, Delhi has served as a capital of various kingdoms and empires. It has been captured, ransacked and rebuilt several times, particularly during the medieval period.  Read more: https://destinationpeace.org/blog/

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Lalitha Sekhar

Our Gracious and Talented hosts in Delhi 

Sekhar’s family is royalty without the fanfare in India. Every member of Sekhar’s and Suresh’s family is a future Noble prize winner “in formation.” If we contacted the award grantors in Sweden they would be accused of nepotism!  Today we feature Lalitha Sekhar (Sekhar’s wife) The following article was written by her multitalented daughter Amrita Sekhar  Dr. Lalitha Sekhar is the Director of Medicine and Geriatrics at Medanta, a large, swanky and fairly recently-established private hospital in Gurgaon. As a physician, she along with her team of 14, is responsible for looking after all aspects related to the prevention, diagnosis, and treatment of diseases such as tuberculosis, dengue, and pneumonia, among others. In her 60’s, she displays more energy, commitment, and drive than most doctors half her age! Sitting at her desk, I find her reading the New England Journal of Medicine. When asked why, she says that the most important and interesting aspect of her job is to keep abreast of the latest developments in medical technology and the new drugs available in the market.  Lalitha joined Medanta in February 2013. Prior to this, she has worked with Apollo hospitals in Delhi since 1996. She has an M.B.B.S and MD degree from Maulana Azad in Delhi and is the chairman of the Viswanathan Trust which provides health care at nominal costs to the needy.  She shared her journey through her career despite her many constraints:  EARLY YEARS, CHILDHOOD AND FAMILY  I hailed from a lower middle class family in Delhi. In my early years my family taught me to value tenacity, honesty, and be kind and generous to those lesser privileged than me. I had a difficult childhood as I lost my mother at 8 and therefore, from very early on I had a lot of family responsibilities. I had no person in a guiding role so most of what I have learnt has been self-taught. I met my husband when I was 25. We are poles apart as individuals. He works in the hotel industry and therefore our careers are as different as they can get. But it’s the support that I have received from him and my family that has helped me build a successful career.  LESSONS FROM EARLY CAREER  After graduating from Maulana Azad, my first job was working as a Senior Resident at Irwin hospital. The job was tough, the hours grueling and I was forever haunted by the fear of making a mistake. However, I learnt a lot in my first job. The important lessons being that you needed to have a very thorough knowledge of medicine and keep abreast of the latest discoveries all over the world. It was here that I got to spend a lot of time with patients and understood how gratifying the job could be.  My biggest ambition was to become an academician and eventually a professor in a medical college. However, times were bad and I never got a chance. I tried for 4 years in a row and then gave up. Those were tough years. I set up a small clinic at home. There were days on end when I would get almost no patients. When things started looking up a bit, I was forced to move to Chennai as my husband had gotten a posting there. In many ways the move marked the turning point in my life. I started working at Apollo hospitals in Chennai at their ICU.  BASIC DRIVE, PRODUCTIVITY TIPS, AND ADVICE TO OTHER WOMEN  I am driven everyday by the feeling of getting a chance to help someone in need. I am intrigued by the medical profession and even after 35 off years in the profession I find it extremely dynamic and challenging. My driving force comes from my family and my children. The biggest productivity tips to success are punctuality, hard work and always keeping yourself abreast of the latest developments and discoveries. Discussing medical problems in a group comprising of people with expertise in varied medical specialties is a highly recommended as working in silos is as detrimental to the medical profession as any other.  Medicine is not a strongly gender biased industry with the exception of certain fields like surgery. Hence, my advice to younger women is to be meticulous, work hard, read a lot and be aware of the future direction in which your field is headed. Dream big, work hard and you’ll be content. Medicine is a demanding profession and unlike others it is not governed by fixed working hours. Hence it is beneficial to have a supportive life partner and family.  Future blogs will feature Sekhar and his talented daughters and son-in laws…  

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Poetry in Marble: The Taj Mahal

Poetry in Marble: The Taj Mahal

The construction of the Taj Mahal is ascribed to the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan who erected a monumental mausoleum in memory of his beloved wife affectionately called Mumtaz Mahal.  Her dying wish to her husband was “to build a tomb in her memory such as the world had never seen before” – and quite frankly – hasn’t since! The construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632 and was completed in 1648: 17 years and 20,000 workers to complete this heroic task.  The Taj Mahal is regarded as one of the eight wonders of the world. Built entirely of white marble, its stunning architectural beauty is beyond adequate description, particularly at sunset when we were there.  Sekhar’s photographer’s eyes and prescient “vision” knew that Janice, Feroza, Suresh and I needed to behold the wonderment of the Taj as the sun began to set, creating a heavenly context for its majestic unparalleled frame.  As Sekhar had foretold, the Taj glowed in the scintillating, shimmering, surreal shadows of the setting sun. With grace he lifted his camera (watching a rare master photographer is a religious experience) and captured the uplifting timeless pictures seen below. 

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Sustenance for the Gods and for Humankind

Sustenance for the Gods and for Humankind: Street Food, Religious Sites, and Gratitude

The driver picked us up at 6:45 AM for the trip to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal.  On the way we stopped for coffee/tea and Tanduri Roti Parathas:  Nothing is as delicious as Indian street food! The process of preparing these dishes is efficient, fast, and sumptuous in taste. Vegetarian diets in India are high in carbohydrates and low in fat: high in taste with nothing bland!  Click here for a short video of the street food, we encountered.  The first leg of our journey is taking us to Vrindavan and Mathura, the birthplace of the Hindu god Krishna.  Suresh warned me to hold onto my eye glasses… I wish that I had listened! In the blink of an eye – faster than the speed of light – a monkey swooped down from a rooftop, snatched my glasses in his teeth and swaggered with pride on an aluminum ledge. Within seconds local merchants were offering the monkey juice boxes to bribe him to leave the glasses on the ledge. Suresh and I realized immediately that this was a lucrative business for the locals. It was monkey business!  We proceeded to the crowded Banke Bihari Temple. The priest’s personal aide met us and had us walk through a metal gate to stand in front of the Temple. The officiant placed garlands around each of us. Astonishingly, the aide brought us to the house of the main priest, and with great hospitality served us lunch.  The priest is from a ancestral history that includes the Six Goswamis of Vrindavan. They were a group of devotional teachers (gurus) from the Gaudiya Vaishnava tradition of Vedic Religion who lived in India during the 15th and 16th centuries.  Following our visit at the priest’s home we visited the International Society for Krishna Consciousness.  Click here for a short video from our visit to the Hare Krishna Society  Tonight we were invited by Suresh’s cousins to the India Habitat Centre for dinner. The India Habitat Centre is known for co-hosting a Habitat Summit:  We will return Monday morning to the Center to hear the legendary Indian singer Ulhas Kashalkar, one of the most formidable vocalists in India. He has performed at some of the most prestigious venues in the world. A professional civil society initiative whose primary purpose is to serve as a multi-disciplinary public awareness and educational platform, and to facilitate positive change in India’s cities by engaging all stakeholders of society in shaping India’s built environment. The Summit serves as a communication vehicle to position key policy issues and to highlight opportunities for positive change by showcasing community-oriented urban renewal projects.”  Destination Peace continues to marvel at the veracity and fidelity of the Indian spirit towards work and living life. 

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